“It was hot in 2025,” Karsten Peter said, “but we had sufficient rain.” He described the rain after hot periods as “perfect refreshment for the vineyards.” The combination of water availability and warmth meant rapidly advancing sugar levels, but not necessarily ripeness. This prevented Peter from picking Sekt base, as the grapes still did not taste “right” despite strong analytical measurements. Harvest started in the first week of September, with Chardonnay and some Rieslings picked even before Pinot Noir. Rain came during harvest — the village wines were picked before the rain, the single-site wines after. Peter wanted to wait for more ripeness for his non-malolactic Riesling style, which requires ripe phenolics to support freshness. Waiting until after the rain necessitated stringent sorting, despite Peter and his team having prepared the vineyards in advance by halving bunches and de-leafing. Special note should go to Peter’s fine-boned Chardonnays and beautiful Pinot Noirs.
0.75l
The 2025 Riesling Kallstadter Saumagen has a touch of reductive smokiness. The palate is stony and cool-toned with a backdrop of lemon. Pure and crunchy with a firm structure, this is so clear-cut and alluring in an austere fashion. (Bone-dry)
Wine writer at Vinous
per fles
0.75l
The 2025 Riesling in der vorderen Benn RDF, an acronym for réserve de famille, picked from limestone, shimmers with freshness and brightness, with clear-cut limestone character, but also grace and detail, firm yet exquisitely fine. That lemony tanginess, so pure, salty and fine, lasts beautifully. (Bone-dry)
Wine writer at Vinous
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0.75l
The 2024 Spätburgunder Spielberg Terrassen is from the west-facing, ventilated slope of a limestone ridge protruding from the Pfälzer Wald. Exquisitely aromatic cherry comes with some reduction but also shimmers with morello overtones. This is so bright, so vividly red-fruited, yet backed by a supple creaminess. A fine-boned and charming Pinot that just dances, twirling its crimson chiffon skirts. Freshness, fine structure and exquisite aroma are here to stay. (Bone-dry)
Wine writer at Vinous
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0.75l
The 2024 Chardonnay Herzfeld is from Leistadt, on limestone and fermented in roughly 50% new small barrels. Smoky reduction and creaminess unite on the nose, still with a yeasty kind of savoriness. The palate spreads its stoniness across the creamy oak, accentuating both and showing a transparency, like tasting stone itself. That subtle smokiness still echoes and there is not an ounce of weight. (Bone-dry)
Wine writer at Vinous
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0.75l
The 2024 Chardonnay Fuchsmantel is planted on terraces of calcareous loess. The wine was fermented in small barrels, half of them new. Smokiness, with subtle lemon, still dominates the nose, with smouldering reduction that smooths out into creaminess. Creaminess also defines the palate, with curve and suppleness, but the saltiness is what is most arresting on the finish. (Bone-dry)
Wine writer at Vinous
per fles